It is the Journey - Not the Destination

San Telmo Sunday Flea Market

arg_j_final_DSC02686

arg_j_final_DSC02692

Our last day in South America was spent at the outrageous San Telmo Sunday market. It was still dark outside when we began hearing the activity outside on Defenca, home to the Sunday market. Rick's Place opens to Defenca, which is blocked every Sunday for at least a mile to accommodate the artisians, performers, musicians, hordes of shoppers, and more.

This was the famous Sunday flea market in San Telmo. Imagine the Boulder Pearl Street Mall in summer, combined with the old Mercado in De la Guerra Plaza for Santa Barbara Fiesta. The San Telmo was an amazing display of artisans, talent, goods, antiques, street musicians, food and more. We met up with Karla and Graciela (puppy) and began our full day of street marketing. By now shopping has become my favorite sport and the stuff here was so interesting that I was into it for most of the entire day. People watching is unsurpassed, the street performers, musicians is like nowhere else.

If you ever go to Buenos Aires, you must go to the San Telmo Sunday market. This was a perfect finale for an amazing month in South America. Early dinner and back to the B&B to pack and prepare for our long journey back to Santa Barbara.

Tigre

Once again, the attendant on the way into Buenos Aires gave us a terrific travel tip and suggested we go to Tigre. The singing taxi driver on the way to the Retiro Train station was a contrast to the complaining taxista the day before. He was so excited that the Gringos were going to Tigre. His ad lib singing was really fun and great entertainment on the way to the Retiro station. The hour train ride was fun, north through the city all of the way to Tigre. Once there, we found the water taxis and had our introduction to life on the river. There was an entire culture of people that lived up here on the Parana river delta. Many of the homes were weekend getaways for the Buenos Aires well to do. Interspersed were regular people, living and working on the River Parana.

We to the water taxi, very large old wood motor launches right out of the African Queen, to a gourmet restaurant called Gato Blanco. The rain was stronger, but the timing was perfect as we were comfortable inside with only a few other people on this rainy Saturday. Frank Sinatra was on the juke box, the food was delicious and the whole experience was quite delightful with flocks of Parrots flying across the River Parana.

These river dwellers were served by the water taxis. One simply flags one down when you want to head into town. There were motorboaters, waterskiers, jet skiers, all enjoying Saturday on the River.

After lunch we headed back into town on the water taxi to check out the Puerto de Frutos Marketplace. After a full day in Tigre, we headed back into Buenos Aires.

We went to another famous Milonga to meet Cherrie and Ruben and their students. Everyone was dancing the Tango. We were late to the dance but enjoyed watching the variety of tango-ers. This was a very different vibe and clientele than the Cathederal Milonga. It was a large, well lit Milonga. Most of the dancers were good, and could handle the basic steps. Joanna danced with a couple of guys including the instructor and looked good out there. I enjoyed watching and the conversation at the table.

A couple of phone calls later and we meet up with Karla at her house for the usual 10:30 PM dinner. We walked around the corner to a nice restaurant that was packed of course with all ages eating their 11 PM dinner – Cena.

Shopping in Buenos Aires

arg_s4_DSCN6156

We headed to Palermo Soho as per the suggestion of the wonderful airline attendant flying into Buenos Aires. Amazing amount of traffic across town on this rainy Friday morning. Joanna jumped right into the leather store and a few woman’s shops. Stan found a men’s store and a classy dark stripped wool suit. This area was known for its designer shops. I found many husbands waiting for their wives to talk to while Joanna explored the inner Buenos Aires. One honeymooning husband and another LA husband to connect with. Lunch was tasty at a local Parrilla suggested by one of the very helpful shopkeepers.

Joanna continued her feverishly pursuit after lunch in spite of her frustration of not finding what she wanted. However after the Freddo ice cream (some of the best Ice cream in Buenos Aires) things changed. Joanna finally found her store. She found a fun store with unusual tops. Happily she shopped till the last minute when we finally left Palermo for our 2^nd Tango lesson with Ruben and Cherrie. We barely made it across with the Friday rush hour traffic to our lesson back at Ricks Place.

Our crazed taxi driver was the first unhappy taxi driver we met in South America. He ranted and raged on and on across town. His dad was Italian and he wanted to move to Italy and get out of Buenos Aires. He had nothing good to say about anything in Argentina. This man clearly needed a vacation. I found out later, that Taxistas (cab drivers) had to work long hours 10 to 14 hour days for minimal money. It was a job but not a great one.

The second Tango lesson wasn’t as good as the first. I lost my confidence and finished thinking that I probably will never “feel” the tango, nor will I ever get my feet to do what they are supposed to do. The man is supposed to lead the Tango. Joanna was doing great. She was getting it. I enjoyed seeing her dance with Rubin. We were exhausted after the lesson and collapsed into bed. Tomorrow was Tigre.

Buenos Aires Historical Tour – More Tango

This rainy day was theperfect day for a city historical tour. We managed to jump over to the Florida street mall to buy leather jackets in the morning before the afternoon tour. Joanna and Stan each got a new jacket. The one I picked out, was damaged and the gladly made me another. I added a few features to my jacket, extra pockets, a coat loop, a little bigger around the armpits all at no extra charge. Meanwhile outside is when the rain really hit hard. In fact the lower parts of Buenos Aires were flooded out that day. B.A made world news. This was the most rain we had seen yet.

Our city tour was led by Diego. We were lucky once again as there were no other people on the tour. Probably because of the rain we had a special private tour. Our tour began in the main Plaza de Mayo. Diego pointed out the French influence in the cities architecture. We were in the main the main square where the Mothers of the disappeared march every Thursday looking for justice. Many of the mothers are gone now, dying off. They have pleaded their case to the various governments since the Dirty War, the reign of terror began in 1976 to 1983 when over 30,000 people students, and citizens were murdered and tortured. It has been proven that this horrendous act of unforgivable genocide was systematic and designed to created fear in the Argentineans to thwart and suppress any organized opposition to the oppressive government. The mothers weren’t marching this day because of the rain. However from the square we could see the very window where Eva and Juan Peron made their appearances together in the late 1940s and early 1950s.

Diego, a very educated young man explained the complicated and convoluted political history of the Argentina. It seems that whenever the aristocracy (of which Buenos Aires had a very opulent, wealthy ruling class) didn’t like the government, they would contract with the military for a military coup. The church also didn’t like the young liberals. They were upset with Peron for taking religious education out of the schools. We asked many questions of Diego as the tour continued our the city’s historical sites culminating at the Recoleta Cemetery where Eva is buried. Each mausoleum was more outrageous than the next. Every one was over the top with their towering marble sculptures. Buenos Aires is a city of paradoxes. One being this cemetery where Eva Peron was buried surrounded by her allies as well as her enemies.

After the very interesting and thought-provoking tour we met Karla for a Gallery opening/Tango music display at a little gallery up the street. Brenda the gallery owner was in relationship with a former Santa Barbarian Grahm Hatch. The show focused on Tango Art. One of the artists, Bono, was very good and also played expert Bandoneon in the Tango orchestra Bono Giraudo. What a treat when the singer joined in with the guitarist and Bandoneon player. The entertainment was superb. Turns out that the singer was a medical student, a gastrointernologist in training. He had an opera voice. Reminded me of the Flamenco singers we heard in Spain. Big voice, very passionate singing. We even had a barefoot tango dancing couple for entertainment. Buenos Aires is absolutely a cacophony, a cauldron of paradox and a hot bed of creativity. If you want to be more creative, if you want more passion in your life you must move to Buenos Aires. But wait the day isn’t over yet.

We took a taxi to a record store/Jazz dinner club up town. Notorious is a record store with a restaurant / jazz club in the back. We had reservations and readied ourselves for the usual 11 PM dinner before the show began.

What a great show. Zaida Saiace played piano carefully and passionately accompanied by her guitarists, bass player and singer (from Germany and was the most ethereal other-worldly singer we had every experienced.)

 

First official Tango Lesson

Desayuno at Rick's Place is when the day begins. All of the house guests including John and Lee gradually make their groggy appearance around the large, accommodating breakfast table. Greetings are exchanged as are the very diverse and interesting life stories. Our group consisted of twin sisters and a boyfriend on holiday from Bermuda, a single woman from Brighton England with Fermina and Nancy tending to the coffee and the gourmet breakfast quietly, professionally and unobtrusively. What a class act Rick's Place is. If you are going to visit Buenos Aires, I strongly suggest that you reserve your room at Rick's Place.

We had plenty of time before our first Tango lesson so headed up to Parque Lezama (Ricks Park) with a stop at the famous Plaza Dorrego. The entire plaza was tables and chairs. It was full of life. We ran into Suzanne from our B & B, sat and talked, had a coffee until we headed over to the Tango show at the other end of the plaza. Tango in the park.

arg_s1_DSCN6103

The restaurant was quaint, and the show enjoyable. There were 2 tango couples. One better than the other but both very good. This show was as close as we got to a Tang Show. They were great. We were outside, drinking coffee and watching tango, really for the first time. The night before at the La Catedral was certainly Tango, but this was a Tango show. After a few numbers, applause they would pass the hat. Joanna and I both had our pictures taking with the couples too. Tip was gladly shared. Incidentally one of the dancers was a gringa who had moved to Buenos Aires expressly to learn the Tango.

The next table over had another gringo couple, Gary and Debra from Seattle or was it Oregon. They were thinking of moving to Buenos Aires to learn tango and take up the lifestyle. We enjoyed the Tango show and our conversation with Debra and Gary.

Eventually we headed out to Ricks Park, lunch at a Parrilla (grill) and backs to Ricks place for our first Tango lesson with Ruben and Cherrie. Cherrie was yet another woman who had moved to Buenos Aires to Tango.

Fortunately the first lesson was easier than the night before. Ruben emphasized that the Tango is to be felt. Need to feel it. Worry about all of the fancy footwork later. He taught us how to do the Tango walk to the music. These simple steps were the very foundation to good tango. Joanna and I both felt there was hope, maybe we could get it.

We met up with our friend Karla from Santa Barbara, (another gringa who moved to Buenos Aires to learn Tango) and went to another Milonga to take Tango lessons. This beautiful old ballroom had apparently been in a number of movies and was a well-preserved relic from the opulent Buenos Aires past.

arg_s4_DSCN6157

The lessons were good, but not as good as Ruben and Cherrie's. We were doing better together. This was our 3^rd lesson in 2 days. Not to mention the Tango show in the Plaza. Buenos Aires is truly Tango town.

We left the lesson for our usual late night south American style dinner, eating at 11:30 PM. Le Gran Taberna was just behind Congresso, the Argentinean Legislature. It was packed for a week night. Food was good.

Buenos Aires

I was somewhat sad to leave the Southern Most City on the planet. I was leaving Patagonia where the air was clear, the Antarctic influence was felt as well as visible in the color of the sky, the billowing clouds, and the extreme geography. This was goodbye to Patagonia, the wide open spaces, the other-worldly ragged mountains, and the southern celestial firmament. I guess I thought I would do more hiking than a few day-hikes. However I know now what to do, where to go, when I come back. Patagonia with its Guanacos, Nandus, and huge expanses will always have a special place in my heart.

arg_s1_DSCN6085

Our plane arrived on time in Buenos Aires around 6 in the evening. It was nearly 90 degrees with 90% humidity outside. This was different after 3 weeks in the mountains of Peru and the Patagonian Steppe. Joanna and I both love the cool and drier mountain climate.  Buenos Aires in the Summer was the opposite of that. Hot and Humid.

arg_j1_DSC02371

After an hour of waiting around in the blazing heat and a couple of phone calls,our taxi driver finally found us. He jetted us across the city freeways to our hotel in San Telmo, Rick’s Place.

John Packet the owner and host of Rick’s Place, is an expatriated Brit. He setup his own little paradise in the middle of San Telmo (a bohemian barrio in Buenos Aires) The B & B had been completely remodeled with new plumbing, air conditioning, full modern kitchen, hot tub on the Terrazza and even a spacious Salon for Tango lessons.

Lee is a fascinating woman with a wonderfully interesting life story who actually runs the business of the B & B. Lee runs Rick’s Place. She was the first of many women we met who had cashed it all in, left her former life to move to Buenos Aires to do Tango. Its hard to comprehend, but it is an entire lifestyle. The Tango was nearly a lost art form but is currently experiencing a boom, a veritable explosion of popularity. Buenos Aires is synonymous with Tango.

Hungry after a full travel day, we walked across the street and ate dinner at the best French restaurant in Buenos Aires. The plan was to meet John, Lee, and the other guests and go to a Tango club (a milonga) called La Catedral. This was truly an inside look at Buenos Aires. This was not your usual Gringo Tango show. This was a steamy, upstairs, dimly lit funky tango club. The clientele included teens, with piercings and tattoos to an 80 plus year old Porteno dressed in a traditional dark suit with running shoes. The art on the walls of this grand hall was original, haphazard, yet interesting. The music was 100% Tango music. I must say that music reminded me of the cartoons I watched in the 1950’s. Instrumentation for Tango music included piano, strings, guitar, Bandoneon, Clarinet, and variations thereof. I found myself constantly searching for the beat. Rarely if ever, did I hear percussion instruments other than guitar. Turns out that Tango music is often 2/4 or cut time. The dance is centered on an 8-step count…all in all it is very complicated for my small mind.

None the less, we were in Buenos Aires to learn the Tango. So we stepped into the circle to join the group lesson. Wow was that frustrating. Joanna and I have been together over 22 years and yet some of our biggest fights have been during dance lessons. We’ve taken many through the years. But this night, trying to learn the Tango was truly memorable. The lesson had been going for an hour before we finally jumped in the circle. The instructors were of course, teaching in Spanish. It was all in good fun, but I think we both left the dance floor that night wondering if we could ever learn this complex passionate sexy dance called Tango. We were in bed by 2 AM that night (morning.)

Dia de Penguino

arg_s1_DSCN6043

We had already purchased our tickets the evening before, so Monday Morning we were on the road to Estancia Harberton to see the Penguins. The 2 hour drive from Ushuaia is beautiful and interesting. Extremely rugged mountains covered with Magellanic Subpolar Forests. This main highway around Tierra del Fuego is paved but very rough in spots. The surprisingly thick forests were lush. The traffic was sparse down there at the ends of the earth. Also of interest were the many ranches, or homesteads out there in the forest. All of these homes are “off the grid” and probably have generators and wood heat. Apparently many of them are squatters and have setup their homes without any legal right to do so.

We boarded the Zodiac with captian Daniel at the helm and Jessica our guide. The Ends of the Earth is truly a global community as was reflected in our passenger manifest that morning. There was a couple who had just arrived from France, another couple of women from Mexico City, and Joanna and myself.

Hammer Island, home to the penguin preserve was just across the glassy bay while Chile was across the Beagle Channel. The mountains seemed very young down here at  54° 48' 0" south latitude. They were rugged, ragged and yet covered with the Magellanic Subpolar Forests.

We began seeing penguins about halfway to the preserve. While they are swimming, these Magellanic Penguins look like any other water birds. They could’ve been black seagulls, or a member of the Duck family had we not known they were penguins.

Then there was the beach, covered with thousands of black and white penguins. Jessica told us that there were somewhere between 4 and 5000 penguins on the island now. The babys were born a couple of months prior, have molted and now looked almost full grown.

We landed and were told to move slowly on the beach, quietly, and not to talk loudly or use any flash with our cameras. In addition to the overwhelming sensation of being in primal mother nature with penguins who were NOT afraid of humans, there was the joyous feeling of being in one of those forbidden zones. It reminded me of the feeling I used to get above timberline when I used to climb in the Rocky Mountains. We were in a place where humans rarely visit. The penguin preserve was one of those places. At the ends of the earth, this was a place reserved for penguins, animals, birds, and plants NOT HUMANS. People are only allowed to visit these forbidden zones. They can not stay there. I felt like I was privy to some special information, I was a special invited guest to a wonderful party, the extraordinary dance of Nature. Now I was a participant for the short 45 minutes we were allowed on the island.

Incidentally, other tour companies visited Isla Martillo (Hammer Island) yes. But only Pira Tours were allowed to actually land people on the island. We were grateful that we had met a couple from Madrid Spain in the gourmet health food restaurant in Puerto Natales who had just done this tour. They told us all about Pira Tours in Ushuaia.

There were the Magellanic Penguins, Cormorants, Eagles everywhere we looked. There were a handful of Shantu Penguins (bigger with Red beaks) also hanging out on Hammer Island. The air was full of the squawking males calling their mates. Penguins mate for life and return to the same nest every year to rear their young. Interestingly, if the male dies the female will find another mate. Whereas if the female dies, the stays single. The babies on Hammer Island were 2 to 3 months old and almost full grown.

Sitting on the beach with the penguins was a definite highlight. They are very curious animals and would let us sit up close and personal with them. We walked around to check out their burrows, their homes. What a remarkable morning that was, hanging out with the Penguinos.

After the penguins, we had a coffee and postere at the Estancia Harberton and took our leisurely time returning to Ushuaia. We even stopped into the Southern Most Ski Area in the world Cerro Castor.

Just for a quick looksee. Ushuaia was busy Monday but nothing like the day before when the cruise ship was in. We walked around town for an hour or so. Post office, coffee, ice cream, and the usual town stuff.

Rather than driving to the Tierra del Fuego National Parque outside of town, we opted to hike up to the glacier right in town. We missed the chairlift ride up but hiked up the trail. Nice views of the Beagle Channel, the city of Ushuaia and surrounding mountains from up there.

On the way out, Katia hitched a ride down to town. She had the dream job of dream jobs. Katia is a French naturalist who takes tours on a small cruise ship to Antarctica. In her 2 years, she had been to Antarctica 8 times and was on leave until her next ship left for the Falklands and Capetown South Africa. Katia answered a great puzzle for us. She told why there were so many French people in Ushuaia. Apparently “Ushuaia” was a very popular TV show in France.

We found the best restaurant in Ushuaia for our last night in town. Pricey but worth it. Kaupe Restaurant was a class act family restaurant with wonderful views of the city, the harbor, the cruise ships and the Beagle Channel.

Ushuaia Argentina

arg_j1_DSC02053

arg_j1_DSC02065

Much to our surprise, Cueca dancers greeted us at the airport rental car desk in Punta Arenas. The whole dance troupe was there, in costume complete with music apparently waiting for some dignitary returning to Punta Arenas.

I was happy to report to the rental car agent that the Subaru performed perfectly and although the total cost was quite high, it was worth every penny since we had driven over 1100 KM in 4 days.

The 40 minute plane trip saved us a 12 hour bus trip to Ushuaia. I could see through the clouds, incredible sky amazing mountains, snow and large expanses of green water below.

35 years ago, my buddy David Slade visited Ushuaia and spoke about the pristine wilderness he experienced here. The seed was planted and today I finally made it too. The size of the town, the number of people, throngs of tourists, the traffic jam down main street all surprised me a bit, but did not subtract from my excitement. I was satisfied knowing I made it to the end of the earth.

We parked the car and walked to the tourist bureau to get a decent map. I noticed the man in front of me procured a certificate so I asked for one too. We have officially made it to Ushuaia, the southern most city in the world.

Dinner was next. Both of were starving and we just followed our noses to a decent restaurant along main street. Then we pursued the Pira Tour – Eco penguin tour that we had heard about. We easily found Veronique at the Pira office by the wharf and she patiently answered all of our questions. We purchased the tickets and tomorrow is all lined out. We drive 85 KM to the ranch where we pick up the Penguin tour boat at 10 AM. Tomorrow afternoon, we will check out the national park. Only to top off the evening with a sunset dinner cruise around the lighthouse in the Beagle channel. Lastly we needed to check into our hotel.

We drove around following the map and poor directions to our hotel. We were lost for about a half an hour until we finally stopped to ask someone. Alls well that ends well and we drove right into the Ushuaia Hotel at sunset.

Very friendly staff greeted us. This was a very different vibe than where we just had been in Chile Patagonia. Our room looked to be quiet and we were happy to settle in for the evening.  

But no, Stan wanted a short sunset walk to view the city at twilight. The colors looked nice. This seemed like the perfect compromise rather than driving up to the Glacier for the big view. We once again followed our nose, and walked around the neighborhood.

arg_s1_DSCN6028

To me the houses reminded me of a mountain town. Lots of wood, logs, stone and glass. It felt like home to me. While we were walking we spotted a very unique house and garden. Low and behold the owner was working in the garden. She noticed our interest in her cat and we were promptly invited into her garden and eventually her house to meet her entire family. Laura has 3 kids, 4 cats, and a boyfriend. She has been working as librarian in Ushuaia since 1985 and had lived in her wonderful home since 1989.

Her kids were all home. Two sons and a daughter. They were all beautiful, all spoke English, and were very welcoming like their mom.  Each one greeted us with a typical hug and kiss. Remember we had only known these people for 10 maybe 15 minutes at the most and they were greeting us with a kiss.

The conversation warmed up as we shared our first Mate tea with them. Here it was 11 PM Sunday night and they were preparing dinner. Everyone had their part in the family but mostly we marveled at the conviviality, and civility of this warm Argentinean family.

We hated to leave but we were tired and needed to sleep to ready for our big day in Ushuaia beginning at 6:30 AM. Arif led us down the path to our street and we walked home, trying to make sense of what just had happened.

 

Back at the hotel, we ordered a night cap hot chocolate. We explained to Mika our bartender how we were just out walking and met a family who invited us in for Mate. She said that the people here are very friendly and that this would be normal behavior. I knew I would love Ushuaia.

Adios Torres del Paine

We packed up in search of shopping and Chilean Flamingos. We met the noisy gringos. One was Magan Radich, a lovely horsewoman and her parents from Flagstaff Arizona. Magan was another Gringa who married a local Chilean. They now run a horse-packing business in the valley. She and her husbands business, http://criolloexpeditions.com/ were currently featured in the local newspaper, the Black sheep.

Cerro Castillo was amidst an annual event, the Enduro. Where Huasos and Huasas, Horsemen and horsewomen from all over Chile compete in cross country riding races. The little town was bustling.

 

We headed South with a quick stop at the Cueva to inquire about some supposed Flamingos nearby. Fortunately there was a bus driver with one of the groupos who told me about a flock of Flamingos half way to Punta Arenas. After a nice picnic lunch on some old ranch road with cows and vistas every direction we headed into Puerto Natales.

 First stop El Living for Coffee and posteres. Off to search out Jewelry stores and Magan’s mother-in-law, Boris’s mom. We found Monica and her cute little shop in a sheepherder’s wagon. (Magan told us where her store was in town) She was very charming and welcoming; even let Stan go into main house to try on Tee Shirts.

 

arg_j1_DSC02001

After a few small purchases, we were off to Taller Arbol, for handcrafted Jewelry. The window was fantastic, full of creative handmade works of art. Jewelry of silver and semiprecious stones. Very unique and interesting. However the store was closed. Stan noticed a guard dog was trapped between the front door, and the gate without food or water. This was a clue that the shop keeper would return shortly. Which he did.

 

Ricardo was very amiable, spoke good English and was good company and conversationalist for the next hour. Joanna bought ear rings, and Stan a handmade silver chain for Cusco Inca symbol. We talked politics, web sites, and about the bilingual nature of Texas and California. Oh yea, and he told us the story about why he left the dog in such a precarious place. Its 5:30 and it was time to get out of Dodge and head towards Punta Arenas.

 

AS directed by the bus driver at the Cueva, we stopped at the Penitente Lagune along the highway. Indeed, there were dozens of Pink Chilean Flamingos with black-tipped wings in this little roadside lake. We happily stopped to enjoy the spectacle. Although our cameras were not good enough to zoom in that far, we had our new binoculars to watch these magnificent pink birds, feed, play, fly and walk around in the lake. What in the world were they doing in Patagonia?

 

While watching them, 2 Nandu’s curiously crept closer and closer to us as they were feeding. Imagine Pink Flamingos and Ostriches wild in the prairies of Montana. That is how absurd the whole scene was. The Nanadus, crept within a few feet of while we watched and took pictures. We hung out with the Nandus and Flamingos for a half an hour or so. During that time, by the lake appeared dozens of squawking Cara Cara’s and the beautiful Ibis’s (Bandurrias.) It was feeding time for the birds around Penitente Lagune. A nice farewell for us from Patagonia.

 

On the road again, we passed a roadside shrine, driver Stan announced he was sleepy with still 125 KM to go. He was magically saved by a special radio tribute show to John Fogherty and Credence Clearwater Revival. Great old road music. The show got us up and going, singing and rocking through Patagonia all the way to Punta Arenas and the Hotel Cabo del Hornos.

 

arg_s1_DSCN5998

chile6s_DSCN5916

We were treated to an upgraded room, with a complimentary bottle of wine after complaining to the manager last week about the poor restaurant service. The corner room had terrific views. Don’t forget the gourmet chocolates and fresh plums. The bad news was that the hotel is right on the main plaza. Joanna and I both prefer sleeping with the windows open so all night (Saturday night no less) we listened to drag racing, motorcycles, people talking, laughing and roaring busses. Even a wedding with honking cars. Needless to say we were happy to see the morning sun.

Torres del Paine - Guanaco Meadow

arg_s1_DSCN5991

Surprisingly, it was a perfectly clear morning. The rain had moved in and it was a glorious morning. The desayuno at El Pionero was Nescafe, rice crispys and fruity fruity fruit juice with burned toast. We happily headed out towards the park but the herd of 20 Guanacos in the middle of the road stopped us along with a couple other gruopos. The sun was shining, the Torres (towers in Spanish) were standing bold and gallant, and the trails were calling. We opted for the nature walk right at the park entrance. My other choices were to hike up one of the main trails as far as we could till we got tired then turn around. However we made the right choice.

 

During the 3 hours we were on the trail, there was only 1 other group. EVERYONE ELSE was on the main trails. The quiet trail presented outrageous views of the Torres Del Paine as well as a herd of about 40 Guanacos. We stopped, sat down, and had lunch with these peaceful, graceful, courteous, adorable, cute, sweet, playful, loveable Guanacos. They were comfortable with us and we were in Guanaco bliss. It was for this morning on the trail, in Gunanco meadow that I came to Torres Del Paine.

 

Reluctantly we moved on. It clouded up as per usual in the mountains anywhere and the views were not the same the rest of the day. But we enjoyed driving through the park, seeing the glaciers, the high peaks, glacial-silt green lakes, rivers, and vistas. Many more Gunacos, Andean condors were everywhere. One of the overlooks even came with 2 very tame foxes. These tiny 6 pound foxes had obviously been used to being fed. They came so close to us and begged but were determined not to upset the balance any more than it already was. They eventually gave up and laid down right next to us until the next victim drove in. They left us for the next handout.

 

We had read about the boat trip on Lago Grey. There is an enormous glacier at the end of Lago Grey that feeds the lake with a constant supply of icebergs and incredible visuals. The Hotel at Lago Gray was THE PLACE TO STAY. If you are going to the Torres del Paine Park, book your room early at the Hotel Lago Gray. Great service, good cappuccino, amazing blue ice berg views with plenty of opportunity for outdoor adventure. We had hoped to catch the afternoon boat to the glacier, but the high winds kicked in again and the trip was canceled. Finishing our cappuccinos, we opted for a short walk around the valley to the boat launch.

 

I

arg_j1_DSC01993

n our minds were going to end the day with another run to Puerto Natales for dinner at El Living. We followed the few signs and thought we were going the right way until we realized that once again we took the wrong turn and were nearly back to our El Pionero hotel in Cerro Castillo. Oh well, so much for the gourmet vege dinner. Instead, we had a chicken dinner and salad and went to bed early. Dinner was nice except for the gringos at the other table who were way too noisy. Why are gringos so loud? We met them the next day and actually they were very nice.